Winter weather always seems to usher in a craving for classic comfort food – heaping portions of pot roast, prime rib, chicken fried steak, cheeseburgers and chili. One Davis restaurant to satisfy these Yuletide yearnings is none other than Black Bear Diner.
Having entered the Davis dining scene in May of 2009, Black Bear Diner has been very well-received in the community and applauded for its affordable fare, “big bear” portions, warm ambiance and welcoming service. The restaurant aims to replicate the quintessential, old-fashioned “diner experience.” A rustic cabin interior is flanked by cozy booth seating and plenty of decorative bears. This hospitable, homey atmosphere is exactly what Black Bear co-owner Bruce Dean aims to achieve with his popular restaurant franchise.
“We feel that our restaurant is a three-legged stool, in that we hope to provide good service and good food for a good value,” Bruce explains. He adds, “We want people to feel as though they’ve stepped back in time 50 years when they enter the restaurant.” This goal is accomplished with a bevy of diner detail: oldies emitting out of a vintage jukebox in one corner of the restaurant, a dedication to serving breakfast all day, and a lighthearted sense of humor reflected in many aspects of the business (the breakfast menu reads: “If you’re bearly awake or bearelling along”).
Bruce is proud to call UC Davis his alma mater. He grew up in the Bay Area and spent his college years gaining experience as a cook at Sambo’s restaurant in Davis. Bakers Square replaced Sambo’s and, interestingly enough, Bruce’s daughter – also a UCD alum – spent her college years working as a waitress for Bakers Square. Once Bruce learned that Bakers Square was going out of business, he knew that Davis must become the 41st location for Black Bear Diner – it was fate. “That particular location had simply too much history to pass up the opportunity,” Bruce admits.
The first Black Bear location, however, was founded in 1995 in Shasta, California, by Bruce and his partner Bob Manley. Their love for the scenic, natural setting and the land’s roaming black bears prompted both Bruce and Bob to pour their passion into creating a diner that serves up quality food and a rustic, restful flair. Having lived in Shasta for many years, Bob believed that the restaurant’s trademark needed to be a black bear – an animal exalted throughout time for both its friendliness and sheer power.
Their first year running the Shasta restaurant was a true test of patience. “The first full year we were open, Bob and I did not take any money out of the business. Once a week we would split the quarters out of the restaurant’s jukebox – that’s it!”
Bruce believes that it was the duo’s complete belief in and dedication to their culinary cause that has allowed it to prosper even in tough economic times. He offers words of wisdom to aspiring entrepreneurs: “Whatever you want to do or create, you must have passion for it,” Bruce advises. “You cannot do it for the money.”
Since its Shasta debut, the restaurant has reached popularity of epic proportions, in part because of revered menu items such as the delectable sweet cream pancakes, made from a secret mix that a Texan pancake company allowed Black Bear to use. The biscuits and white gravy are also a delicious treat, as is the homemade, fruit-filled bear claw – a massive indulgence literally the size of a black bear’s paw. Bruce himself is a fan of the restaurant’s homemade patty sausage, created from an Italian recipe near and dear to his heart. Many of the menu items at Black Bear have a story behind them -just as the restaurant itself is a testament to the dining practices of the past.
As a testament to the generosity characteristic of the olden days, both Bob and Bruce are determined to give back to the community. For example, Davis students may enjoy a college discount. Says Bruce: “We really do try to do as much as we can in providing services and meals for worthy causes.”
It was the usual suspects for dinner on this warm fall evening. Cary Arnold, Jon Sanchez, Ara Arbabzadeh, Pete Nowlen and I gathered at Agave Restaurant and Tequila Bar for Margaritas before our review dinner at Black Bear Diner. I was a tad late, so I didn’t get any of the appetizers which must have been pretty good judging by how fast they disappeared.
We were there for a mixer and Agave’s soft opening. They’re testing their menu, and their drink recipes before the big grand opening. Pete keeps suggesting we go there for dinner every time we’re looking for a restaurant in Davis these days, which gives you an idea of his view and, I must admit, I’m looking forward to Tequila tasting – the premium flights are priced at $26, with others as low as $12.
Ara’s a little unpredictable, so she had a martini instead of a tequila drink, which she seemed to enjoy. Pete raved over his margarita, describing it as light and citrus-y, but mine came out very sweet. Agave makes their margaritas with agave nectar, 100 percent agave tequila and fresh-squeezed lime juice. They run from $6 to $9. Mine was supposed to be a “top shelf,” but I believe they were training a new bartender (seriously, that’s what I was told), so it was heavy on the nectar and Contreau. Even so, I didn’t
have any trouble finishing it, and off we went to the diner to visit the bears. Jon summed up the place as somewhere you visit “with an appetite like a bear, and then afterwards you have to hibernate.”
In case you don’t know about Black Bear Diner, let me introduce you. It’s a very kitschy (some would say cute) diner, decorated with an overwhelmingly adorable black bear theme. You can buy stuffed black bears, curios, key chains and cups. The place is filled with black bears of every sort, including the black bear, “Brandi.” All of their restaurants have a mascot that greets you at the door. Brandi is Davis’. The chain originated in Mt. Shasta, Calif. They’ve grown out of control ever since, with more than 40 diners across the United States (meaning mainly the West).
Black Bear Diner is located at 255 2nd Street (the hardest corner in the world to cross, I’m sure you know it), where the Baker’s Square used to be. I loved Baker’s Square. I think they have the best diner style pies I’ve tried. Just so you know, I happen to make the best homemade cherry pie in the world (my ex-wife, Laurie, makes the second best, using the recipe I found when I was 14). I submitted one for my baking final in cooking school (and got an A), so I know pies. I can’t resist the French Lace chocolate pie at Baker’s Square. Yum. But I don’t really remember the food.
Which brings us back to Black Bear Diner. I can’t say I really remember the food at Black Bear Diner, either. I do remember that the huge burger, mound of fries and shakes are good, but but the rest was lost as all seemed to resemble each other in taste and size.
The food looks very enticing, smells great and is cooked well enough, but generally, is just a little bland. We all discussed this and reminded ourselves that we are at a diner. This is all pretty typical for diner food. You’re not going to get a lot of spice or ethnic dishes, but dishes that are safe for families and patrons of all ages. We all do admit to being complete food snobs, however.
Now, keep in mind that we know that Black Bear Diner is known for its breakfasts and the huge biscuits that are served with said meal. We do concur that the breakfasts are really good and a fun place to enjoy a Sunday brunch or a quick breakfast after a meeting, but we wanted to venture into dinner to help you, our Davis Life Magazine readers, navigate the menu. With this in mind, we ordered a lot of food.
The first foods to arrive were the broccoli Cheddar soup (soup or salad is included with dinner), the very basic dinner salad (also included), and the coleslaw (included again). The soup was fine, if a little salty, and the salad was a pretty standard dinner salad. The coleslaw, however, was very good according to Pete – he’s got a thing for coleslaw, so I believe him.
The next dishes to arrive were the Chicken Fried Steak ($13.99), Fish and Chips ($11.99), Bob’s Big Burger ($9.99), a whole mess of fries (including a plate of Gilroy’s Own Garlic Fries ($4.69), a Chicken and Avocado Club ($8.99) and the Tri-Tip ($9.99). We were amazed by the amount of food. Any one of these dishes could have fed the entire table.
The Chicken Fried Steak is nicely battered, fried well and not greasy. It looked like Chicken Fried Steak should with a thick crispy batter, not just lightly coated as you see in most restaurants. The size of the steak was enormous and the chicken gravy on top was thick and there was plenty of it. The meat was tender and went down easily.
The Fish and Chips were also cooked well, but with a different batter entirely. It was light and airy and not greasy at all. It’s not served with the traditional sauces, so you have to ask for them (like malt vinegar).
The Tri-Tip dinner, though cooked beyond the medium rare we requested, was tender enough and very nicely flavored (one of the dishes I would recommend for this reason). Since the meat was overcooked, we expected it to be tough, but it remained tender and flavorful.
The Chicken and Avocado Club was appealing enough that I took the leftovers home (they never got eaten, however, I forgot about them). Mine came on white bread and was a chicken club, not the usual turkey, with a very thick and tender chicken breast, bacon, avocado, lettuce, tomato and the usual condiments.
Everyone tried a fifth of Bob’s Big Burger, except Pete, who doesn’t do red meat. We are all in agreement that the burger was enough for several people. With a fifth of this burger, a fourth of an order of garlic fries and half a shake (sorry, you have to figure out the number of friends for yourself), you’d have a very fulfilling meal, and that’s the real allure of Black Bear Diner – lots of food for a reasonable price. If you want to share a low-priced and shockingly filling meal with two or three friends after a movie, this is your place!
We tried several of the other sides, as well. The Green Bean Casserole (included with one of dinners) was just like mom made. If your mom used canned green beans and mushroom soup, this will bring back the nostalgia of this dish. Jon liked the Scalloped Potatoes (included once again), and the Macaroni and Cheese (yes, included) was, again, OK. The mashed potatoes were creamy and the beef gravy flavorful (yes, included again).
Dessert is where I expected to be “wowed.” I had been eyeing these mouth-watering looking pies since we walked in. Bakers Square’s signature pies were always displayed in a case right at the front door. Black Bear Diner is keeping up the tactic, with these striking, supposedly single-serving pies (yeah right, again “huge” is more accurate) accosting you as you walk in the door. You can’t resist the thought that you couldn’t possibly leave without one. They are so pretty, you just won’t resist buying one.
We ordered a Blackberry Cobbler a la mode ($5.99) (that’s fancy diner speak for “with ice cream”), Chocolate Lava Cake the same way ($5.99), Olga’s Bread Pudding ($4.99), Pumpkin Pie ($4.99) (duh, it’s the season), and the Chocolate Shake ($4.49). The shake was good. Cary didn’t think it was chocolate-y enough, but I though it was fine. It was distantly related to the shakes from the old Milk Farm restaurant, more closely to Denny’s. It was served in a tall frosty glass with chocolate sauce lacing the inside of the glass. I
Pete liked the Blackberry Cobbler, but didn’t finish it. Again, the portions are huge, just not inspiring. The Chocolate Lava Cake was chocolate-y enough, but not really lava-y (perhaps a little overcooked like the meats) and the ice cream was fine. The Bread Pudding was barely touched, and the Pumpkin Pie tasted salty and strangely spicy to me. Ara liked it, so she had most of it, and Cary and Jon thought that it tasted like, “pumpkin pie.”
With dozens (and dozens) of items on the menu, you aren’t going to have a problem finding something, although you might get sidetracked for awhile reading the cleverly designed menus. The front and back are filled with cute old-fashioned stories styled after a 1950s newspaper. Black Bear Diner serve breakfast all day long, and if you’re careful you should be satisfied enough.
The service was absolutely top notch. The waitress knew the menu well enough to help us navigate the dizzying number of choices, and if you have kids, they will be very welcome here. Senior and children’s menus, and the huge portions make it a great deal, and if you choose carefully you’ll probably be fine. When you have leftovers (yes, you will) you’ll be happy to know the take-home containers are eco-friendly.
Black Bear Diner is open Sunday-Thursday, 6 a.m.-10 p.m., and Friday and Saturday, from 6 a.m. to midnight. They serve breakfast all day, and dinner is served from 4 p.m. till closing and, yes, the newspaper they hand you is the menu.
Winter weather always seems to usher in a craving for classic comfort food – heaping portions of pot roast, prime rib, chicken fried steak, cheeseburgers and chili. One Davis restaurant to satisfy these Yuletide yearnings is none other than Black Bear Diner.
Having entered the Davis dining scene in May of 2009, Black Bear Diner has been very well-received in the community and applauded for its affordable fare, “big bear” portions, warm ambiance and welcoming service. The restaurant aims to replicate the quintessential, old-fashioned “diner experience.” A rustic cabin interior is flanked by cozy booth seating and plenty of decorative bears. This hospitable, homey atmosphere is exactly what Black Bear co-owner Bruce Dean aims to achieve with his popular restaurant franchise.
“We feel that our restaurant is a three-legged stool, in that we hope to provide good service and good food for a good value,” Bruce explains. He adds, “We want people to feel as though they’ve stepped back in time 50 years when they enter the restaurant.” This goal is accomplished with a bevy of diner detail: oldies emitting out of a vintage jukebox in one corner of the restaurant, a dedication to serving breakfast all day, and a lighthearted sense of humor reflected in many aspects of the business (the breakfast menu reads: “If you’re bearly awake or bearelling along”).
Bruce is proud to call UC Davis his alma mater. He grew up in the Bay Area and spent his college years gaining experience as a cook at Sambo’s restaurant in Davis. Bakers Square replaced Sambo’s and, interestingly enough, Bruce’s daughter – also a UCD alum – spent her college years working as a waitress for Bakers Square. Once Bruce learned that Bakers Square was going out of business, he knew that Davis must become the 41st location for Black Bear Diner – it was fate. “That particular location had simply too much history to pass up the opportunity,” Bruce admits.
The first Black Bear location, however, was founded in 1995 in Shasta, California, by Bruce and his partner Bob Manley. Their love for the scenic, natural setting and the land’s roaming black bears prompted both Bruce and Bob to pour their passion into creating a diner that serves up quality food and a rustic, restful flair. Having lived in Shasta for many years, Bob believed that the restaurant’s trademark needed to be a black bear – an animal exalted throughout time for both its friendliness and sheer power.
Their first year running the Shasta restaurant was a true test of patience. “The first full year we were open, Bob and I did not take any money out of the business. Once a week we would split the quarters out of the restaurant’s jukebox – that’s it!”
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